The secrets of Count Abbatucci
A true modern entrepreneur, the Count Abbatucci He practices biodynamic viticulture and remains one of the pioneers of the revival of indigenous Corsican grape varieties. His wines, of remarkable finesse and length, are featured in all the top Michelin-starred restaurants in France and New York. During our summer visit, we uncovered the secrets of his success.
Count Abbatucci: the lover of the Isle of Beauty
Born into an old Corsican family, several of whose ancestors had illustrious careers, Jean-Charles Abbatucci took over the family estate at a very young age. His father not having had the time to pass on his knowledge, he became a true self-taught man, undertaking to modernize the vineyard and elevate it to the ranks of the best on the Isle of Beauty. From the late 1990s, he began an organic conversion, then very quickly took the turn towards biodynamics.
His 18-hectare vineyard is planted on granitic sand soils in the Taravo Valley. It is located between Ajaccio and Sartène, at an altitude of 100 meters. The vines are planted primarily with Cinsault and Carignan grapes, and of course, the three main Corsican varieties: Nielluccio, Sciacarello (known locally as djiacarel), and Vermentino. Jean-Charles Abbatucci has come to realize that nature is generous in Corsica, as yields reach 65 hl/ha: the maquis grows easily, giving rise to remarkable aromas, and the vines are never diseased. Based on this observation, he has implemented biodynamic farming and uses local plants to infuse the vines: "Myrtle, nutmeg, and hibiscus offer therapeutic benefits to my vines." Here the soils are plowed with draft horses and care is given according to the lunar calendar.
Wines typical of Corsica
Jean-Charles Abbatucci's genius also lies in the development of an original grafting technique to utilize the collection of indigenous grape varieties planted by his grandfather: imagine a rectangle of nearly 1 hectare on which are planted the 17 historical grape varieties, including Morescola, Morescono, the Carcajolo NeroAleatico, Barbarossa, Biancone, etc. The idea is to use the forty-year-old vines planted by his parents and graft indigenous grape varieties onto them. Very quickly, this method allows him to produce typical 100% Corsican blended wines, a hallmark of the winery. domaine, with each time a major theme in one of the 3 main Corsican grape varieties.
In the winery, winemaking is gentle and the methods are modern. A low-temperature stabilization process filters the wines, giving them both unparalleled freshness and aromatic intensity. Aging in both new and old oak barrels provides significant aging potential for both the red and white wines. The results are truly exceptional.
These wines are then named after his illustrious ancestors: Cuvée du Diplomate (white wine made from Vermentino and 4 indigenous grape varieties), Cuvée du Général (white wine made from Vermentino and the 5 other indigenous grape varieties) and Minister's Vintage Impérial (red wine made from Sciacarelo, Nielluccio and 5 indigenous grape varieties). The wine tasting leaves us speechless: power, finesse, elegance and bouquets of Corsican aromas and scents.
THE domaine is constantly changing, explains Jean-Charles Abbatucci, who outlines his business plan: we will increase the density of the vines to further control our yields, dig aging cellars in the middle of the vines, clear other terroirs at higher altitudes, etc.
Everything suggests that modern viticulture is developing rapidly in this part of France. There are still many terroirs to be identified on the Isle of Beauty. Our local driving force is proud to note that its wines are already being sold worldwide. Its excellent relationships with colleagues, particularly Yves Canarelli (Figari appellation), will allow these new winemakers to spread the word about Corsican wine and elevate the great wines of Corsica to a very high status among the Grands Crus of France.