The Perfectionism of Fabien Duperray
Before making his own wine, Fabien Duperray spent more than twenty years as an agent for fine wines, distributing the crème de la crème of Burgundy (including the legendary Domaine of Romanée-Conti or Coche-Dury). Nourished by this culture of absolute excellence, he decided to take the plunge into 2007 by purchasing very vieilles vignes in Beaujolais.
The name of the domaine is also a double wink: “Jules” in homage to Jules Chauvet (the spiritual father of natural and scientific wines in Beaujolais) and “Desjourneys” to evoke the Burgundian notion of “journals” (an ancient measurement of vine surface area).
Obsessive Viticultural Rigor
The domaine today has around 17 hectares, divided between the greatest crus of Beaujolais for the reds (Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Morgon) and the Mâconnais for the whites (Pouilly-Fuissé, Mâcon, Pouilly-Loché).
- In Biodynamics: The vineyard is certified in organic farming and managed according to the strict principles of biodynamics.
- Drastic Returns: Fabien Duperray refuses generous returns. Where the appellations authorize 50 hl/ha, the domaine steadily drops to 25 or 35 hl/ha, or even less. The vines, planted at impressive densities (up to 14,000 vines per hectare), plunge their roots deep into the rock.
- Soil Work: Everything is designed to enhance the terroir. The soils are nourished exclusively with plant compost and cattle manure, worked by hand or using light tools so as not to compact the earth.
Extraordinary Vinification and Endless Aging
In the cellar, the Jules Desjourneys philosophy is one of surgical precision. Fabien Duperray is not a fan of risky “laisser-faire”: he seeks ultimate purity, without any fault.
- The Reds (Gamay): The vinifications include a portion of whole clusters (around 30%). Fermentation starts with native yeasts, without any sulfur at this stage. Significantly, the domaine uses very few (if any) new oak barrels for reds, favoring stainless steel tanks and glass tanks (Damiand) to preserve the brightness of the fruit without flavoring it with wood.
- Time for Signature: It is the great trademark of the house. Fabien Duperray refuses to sell his wines that are too young. The aging lasts for many years in bottle before marketing. It is not uncommon to see the domaine release a wine 5 to 10 years after its harvest, when the wine is finally “ready”.
The Style of Wines: Deep, Vibrant and Tailored for the Century
Forget everything you think you know about Beaujolais. Jules Desjourneys wines are monsters of concentration, elegance and mineral tension.
The Mythical Cuvées:
- Fleurie (Les Moriers, La Chapelle des Bois): In contrast to the light Fleuries, these are wines with a satiny, almost fleshy texture, developing complex notes of rose petals, black cherry and sweet spices.
- Moulin-à-Vent (Chassignol, Les Michelons, Le Styx): Monumental vintages. When blind, these wines are regularly confused with very great Premiers or Grands Crus of the Côte de Nuits. They have a tannic structure of rare nobility.
- White people (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru, Mâcon-Verzé): Introduced more recently, they immediately rose to the top. These are vibrant, tense Chardonnays, carried by saline energy and a noble reduction (notes of fresh hazelnut and gunflint) which recall the greatest Beaune estates.
The Domaine Jules Desjourneys is an insider’s address, often described as “Haute Couture”. This is Beaujolais at its most aristocratic, purest and most intense. Rare bottles, whose prices are well above regional standards, but which offer an absolutely unforgettable emotional and taste experience.
