A trip through the vineyards: Domaine Trapet, an iconic Burgundian gem

“Men pass away, but the earth remains.”, such is the mantra of Domaine TrapetIt was therefore with barely contained joy that we visited the grounds of this superb property. It was an opportunity for us to (re)discover the domaine, its people and its wines. Join us in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin, in this iconic Burgundian setting. 

The cellars of Domaine Trapet

A domaine historical and family-owned at the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin

We are leaving the Cavissima offices heading towards Gevrey-ChambertinThe vines are already well-developed even though July has only just begun. We arrive at domaine in the morning and were warmly welcomed by the team. 

The summer heat stops at the cellar doors of the domaine into which we enter. The thirty degrees of the inner courtyard give way to a pleasant coolness, ideal for preserving the wines. A few meters underground are the concrete tanks and a beautiful collection of small cement eggs used for the vinification of the 2021 vintage. Spring frosts significantly reduced harvest yields for the vintage. The small quantities of grapes necessitated precise vinification in small containers, particularly in these eggs. As always at Trapet, the vinification process takes place with the fewer interventions possible and with a high proportion of whole clusters. We continue the tour of the cellar with the truncated conical and ovoid stainless steel tanks used for aging but also for blending the cuvées. The team explains that the use of ovoid stainless steel tanks is part of their biodynamic approachFor them, this form allows the wine to retain the purest expression of the fruitThe lees are naturally suspended, continuously nourishing the wine. In contact with its lees, the wine is protected from oxidation, allowing for reduced SO2 levels and preserving the purest expression of the fruit. A few meters further on, the... breeding cellar of domaine. There, the 2021 vintage is aged quietly in carefully selected French oak barrels. Several coopers are represented, and each toasting level is tailored to the character of the vintage. The aim is not to overpower the wines with pronounced oak notes, but to complement the wine so that Its balance is revealed to be perfect.

Walks through the vineyards

The Trapet family, committed biodynamic practitioners

Back on the surface, Jean-Louis Trapet takes us for a stroll through the vineyards. Renowned as one of the greatest winemakers of the Côte de Nuitshe resumed the domaine family business founded by his great-grandfather in 1870 and turned it into a major Burgundian institution. With his wife Andrée, also a winemaker in Alsace, they developed the vineyard and adopted a very environmentally conscious approach. This committed biodynamic farmer has converted the vineyard in 1995He was one of the first in Burgundy at the time. We traveled a few kilometers to the Latricières-Chambertin Grand CruWe were surprised by the uniqueness of the plot, which stands out from the others due to the height of its vines. Each vine is tied to a stake: a wooden post driven into the ground that supports the vine. This technique, also called espalier or trellising, allows for a canopy reaching 2 meters in height. The visual difference with the neighboring vines, trained in the traditional way using trellising, is striking. Jean-Louis explains the reasons for this recent development: 

• Because the vines are taller, the shadow cast by each row protects the grapes of the next row against strong sunlight. 
• The vines are not pruned, which avoids the need for tractors to pass through the vineyards and reduces soil compaction. 
• The apex which forms the top of the vine is preserved and acts as a sensory organ. The vine is the interface between the soil and its environment. The apex plays this role of transmission between the environment, the vine, and its roots.
• Each foot is independent and separated from the next one, which allows the wind to circulate easily, limits the stagnation of moisture and thus preserves healthy sanitary conditions. 
• This provision also allows for protect the grape harvesters and pruners intense summer heat. For Jean-Louis, the value of domaine It also resides in its people: taking care of the hands that work the vines allows the wines to rise. 

In addition to this development, the family decided to introduce companion plants. They plant one shrub of a native species for every five vines. This technique is part of the biodynamic approach of domaine. Jean-Louis explains that in biodynamic viticulture, the winemaker guides the vine to help it develop. The winemaker is there to give it the means to resist on its own. Developing biodiversity and replanting these species around the vine allows it to strengthen itself and protect itself against external attacks. 

A tasting at the summit

Guided tasting between Alsace and Burgundy

A few drops of rain (too rare for Jean-Louis's liking) signaled our retreat to the communal table of the domaine. We finally take our seats on the terrace to begin the tasting. We start with two Aligoté 2020 located on the climat « Under-Châtelet " has Auxey-DuressesAligoté, planted in 1934, is vinified in 3 cuvées with different vinification methods. We taste the classic Aligoté, very fresh and fruity, and the macerated version, spicier, with a pleasant bitterness. The tasting continues with the cuvées At a minimum in white and red. This range is developed with the less SO2 possible and sulfur-free at bottling (since 1996). The white, from Alsace, is a blend of four grape varieties and offers a very beautiful aromatic intensity. The nose of the red seduces us with its elegance and its floral notes.

We then compare the Gevrey 1859 out of two 2020 and 2021 vintages. This cuvée comes from the family's oldest plot. Very young, the two vintages offer quite different characters. The 2020 vintage more intense And concentrate East complex And deepIn 2021, brilliant And full of subtlety, impresses with its refinement. 

THE Gevrey-Chambertin in ergot 2021, also called Little Chapel comes from a 40-are plot and offers a haute couture bottle. The Pinot Noir is still young but is already revealing itself with a lot of complexity and depthThe tasting is punctuated by readings from the writings of Jean-Louis's great-grandfather. We then learn that the domaine was one of the first to make the choice of American rootstocks to combat phylloxera. This vine disease, which decimated French vineyards, was stopped thanks to these famous American rootstocks that spread evenly across the country. We are impressed by the Chambertin Grand Cru 2006. Jean-Louis explains the similarities with the 2021 vintage profile, and we discuss the potential for evolution of this type of Burgundy vintage. freshness striking la cuvée is accompanied by notes of balsamic vinegar, roses and undergrowth magnificent.

Finally, the tasting concludes with 4 Alsatian wines which pair wonderfully with cheeses:

• Riquewihr 2021 offers a vibrant, delicate and fresh fruit.
• THE Schoenenbourg 2016 is a colossal Riesling that offers a great deal of roundness on the palate. The incredible minerality of la cuvée allows it to last for years! 
• Sporen 2016 and its hint of residual sugars feels like a caress.
• Finally, we discover the Orange wine named Amber in 2021. The fine bitterness and subtle tannic structure provide a pleasant structure to la cuvée.

The tasting comes to an end and we thank Jean-Louis for his hospitality. He shared with us his immense passion for his vines and his wines. 

DOMAINE TRAPET FATHER & SON

BURGUNDY