Biodynamics in the Bordeaux region
Jean-Michel Comme, stage manager of the Château Pontet-Canet explains to us the biodynamic approach in Bordeaux
The tasting of the 2012 Bordeaux Primeurs led us, once again this year, to push open the door of the Château Pontet-Canet5th Grand Cru Classé from Pauillac. We had the opportunity to speak with Jean-Michel Comme, the stage manager of the Château, the Bordeaux apostle of the biodynamicsHere is a brief summary of this interview.
The climatology for the 2012 vintage was not easy in Pauillac, how were you able to successfully navigate such complex weather?
Working the vines is paramount for us. Plowing with horses allows us to provide extremely precise soil treatment, especially around the base of the vines. Year after year, the soil becomes better drained, offering the root system a more consistent distribution of moisture. This protects us from periods of heavy rain and drought.
How do you get ripe fruit at harvest time?
Our strategy is simple: we aim for 35 hl/ha. This is a moderate yield for this region. We ensure that the vines naturally produce this yield. The vines will therefore self-program to nourish the appropriate quantity of grapes. This prevents us from carrying out a poor green harvest, as each vine will draw the best from flowering onwards to nourish each of the bunches destined for harvest.
How do you rate the 2012 vintage?
We implemented biodynamic practices in 2005, and it took us five full years to master our processes. Since the 2009 vintage, I believe we can say that we have stabilized our craft and that the wines have reached a superior quality. They are precise and offer both surprising length and depth. They finally resemble what we hoped for.
In a nutshell, how can biodynamics be summarized? Biodynamics is like Chinese medicine. We work to prevent disease and constantly strengthen the vines to combat illness and stress. We spend countless hours in the vineyard to avoid using curative treatments. We believe in letting nature take its course, and in return, the vines offer us their finest fruit.
The Cavissima team also tasted the wines from Château Fonroque Also produced using biodynamic methods. In the same vein, we found wines perfectly balanced between tannins, acidity, and alcohol, always with incomparable depth and length. Absolutely intense and precise aromas. On tasting, the wines have an exceptional effect on the tongue; they are ethereal and three-dimensional. In a word, thixotropic! Wow…what an effect!
Vineyards of Château Pontet Canet
>> Don't miss the entire range in Biodynamics on the Cavissima website!