Bordeaux Primeurs 2023: our opinion on the vintage
The start of the campaign Bordeaux 2023 primeurs is imminent. Following our week of visits to Bordeaux, we are pleased to share our first impressions and the pleasure we had tasting these 2023 en primeur wines. Emilien and Loeiz, our colleagues based in Bordeaux, had already tasted some wines at the beginning of April. Juliette and Alice joined them for this week of team tasting. We were able to discover most of the 2023 Bordeaux wines, with over 120 cuvées tasted!
First fruits of 2023: What are our impressions?
First of all, 2023 is a A heterogeneous vintage. This has become a well-established fact with each En Primeur campaign: the differences in style in Bordeaux are becoming increasingly pronounced. The vintage effect is evident, with 2023 wines being particularly noteworthy. costs, intense And structured, Compared to the powerful and rich 2022 vintage, the technical approaches taken by the estates, both in the vineyard and the cellar, further highlight this homogeneity across the Bordeaux region. In 2023, the wines tasted en primeur accurately reflect the teams' responses to the vintage's characteristics. The wines are generally ripe, but in rare cases may lack depth, allowing the oak aging and tannins to slightly influence the wines.
What can we learn from the 2023 vintage in Bordeaux? This 2023 is a very expressive which allows the terroir to express itself. While the so-called 'solar' vintage(s), such as 2022, 2020, or 2018, reveal greater power and rich, generous aromatics, with this 2023 vintage, the true expressions of the terroir are sublimely showcased. From our discussions with the technical teams at most of the estates, this 2023 vintage more precisely reflects the specific characteristics of each property, each soil, and the teams that work there.
Elegance, there length, there freshness and the depth These are, for us, the main characteristics of this 2023 vintage. Across all appellations, successes abound.
A great vintage for Merlot on the Right Bank, majestic Cabernet Sauvignons on the Left Bank: cellar masters, technical directors, and oenologists performed a delicate balancing act to create wines that perfectly reflect the identity of each estate. It's hard not to recognize the unique character of each appellation, each property, in this unvarnished vintage. What a pleasure to rediscover, in Bordeaux and en primeur, wines that express the typicity of the terroir and the character of the people who cultivate it.
Left bank of Bordeaux, an ode to Cabernet Sauvignon
On the Left Bank, blends give pride of place to Cabernet Sauvignon. Its expression, all in freshness And delicacy ; its structure perfectly complements the beautiful aromatic floral and intensely fruity are the markers of the vintage.
THE Margaux
The largest appellation of the Médoc communal vineyards, Margaux is logically the most heterogeneous. Given the great diversity of soils and climates, some properties suffered more than others in this demanding vintage. Here again, Cabernet Sauvignons particularly shone this year, and mildew spared this late-ripening variety. Our favorites at Margaux include the Château Rauzan-Séglawhich offers a deep, elegant wine, with a beautiful, subtle tannic structure and particularly pronounced floral aromas. Château Durfort-Vivens and the Château La Gurgue They also impressed us this year.
THE Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien This year has surprised us. While generally very consistent, this year the styles of the estates are more assertive and present us with different profiles. Sometimes discreet, sometimes rich and powerful, occasionally particularly fruity, there is something for everyone.
Our favorites are Château Léoville Las CasesOnce again, magnificent, impressively complex and nuanced, Château Gruaud Larose, which has continued its qualitative progress for several years and Château Langoa Barton, regularly among our favorites.
The Pauillac
The Pauillac appellation offers intense, complex, and perfectly balanced wines, one of the great successes of this demanding vintage. Cabernet Sauvignon stands on its own, providing structure, menthol and fruity aromas, as well as subtle floral notes. The appellation's three Premier Grand Cru Classé wines reach the highest levels of quality. We recommend you don't miss out on this year's shining appellation; here are our top picks: Château Grand-Puy Lacoste, a very fine expression of the terroir of gravel markers of this property. Château Duhart-MilonParticularly appealing this year, it offers intense aromas of black fruits, accompanied by a subtly saline structure and finish.
The Saint-Estèphe
In Saint-Estèphe and more generally in the northern Médoc, the vintage's weather profile differed from other appellations. There was no mildew pressure, and June was dry and well-ventilated thanks to the maritime influence. The limestone soils, characteristic of the appellation, contributed to producing dense, intense, fresh, and complex wines. During tastings, we were particularly impressed by Château Montrose And Château Calon Ségur, both on their grand wines and their second wines. Among the other labels, besides the Grands Crus Classés, we should mention the Château Meyney and the Château Capbern which are undoubtedly great successes.
Right bank of Bordeaux: the resilience of Merlot
On the right bank, the Merlot, more susceptible to mildew, required considerable effort from the estate teams. Only the month of April offered a brief respite.
Crunchy, delicious And gourmands, The finest limestone terroirs offer complex and elegant wines, followed by a welcome saline finish highlighting the delicacy of this vintage.
The Saint-Emilion
Thanks to its great diversity of terroirs, Saint-Emilion offers a wide range of expressions in 2023, at all levels of the appellation, up to the highest Grands Crus Classés. While a few properties suffered slightly from mildew, the majority of the plots were well-ventilated and dried by the sunny mornings. Merlot once again showcases the beauty of its intense, fruity, and luscious aromas. We have many favorites in 2023, but here is a selection: The consistency of the Château Canon It impresses us; once again, its mineral length has transported us. Neighboring property, the Château Berliquet produced a truly great wine in 2023; the progress since the 2017 takeover by the Chanel group is impressive. All the wines of the Vauthier family (Château Ausone) charmed and impressed us; we recommend it. Château of Fonbel excellent value for money.
The Pomerols
On the hills of the right bank, the Pomerol appellation is predominantly planted with Merlot. This year, the king of grapes is rich and luscious, while maintaining a beautiful tension and a long, complex finish. Balance is one of the hallmarks of this vintage, as the wines are harmonious and delicate on the palate. A great vintage! Château Clinet produces one of the best value wines of this 2023 vintage with a round, smooth wine, endowed with a beautiful complexity. Lafleur-PetrusLocated between the two aptly named castles, it delights us once again this year. Unsurprisingly and without question, the superb Château Lafleur is a wine to taste at least once in a lifetime.
Pessac-Léognan, a colorful success
The closest appellation to Bordeaux, arguably the cradle of winemaking in the region, Pessac-Léognan and the Graves in general offer both white and red wines. In 2023, both colors were truly successful in these multifaceted appellations! Limestone subsoils and gravelly soils allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc grapes to reach perfect ripeness, while retaining a welcome freshness. Château Smith Haut Lafitte This vintage has once again produced one of the great successes of 2023, in both red and white. The châteaux Haut-Bailly And Carmes Haut Brion are undoubtedly two of the finest wines of 2023. Château Fieuzal remains one of our favorites with excellent value for money on both colours.
Sauternes
Unique in many ways, the Sauternes appellation boasts some truly great Bordeaux wines. An increasing number of estates are producing exceptional dry white wines within the appellation's boundaries. Yet a vintage like 2023 reminds us just how much these distinctive sweet wines are true treasures not to be missed. Rich yet floral, subtle yet intense, fresh and aromatic, it's another great year for Sauternes. Châteaux Coutet and Suduiraut are our favorites this year, both in different genres. Château Cutlery is rich, powerful and indulgent and Château Suduiraut It maintains a fresh, citrusy character that is particularly pleasant.