Bordeaux 2019: The return of En Primeur tastings
The 100-kilometer travel restriction had barely been lifted when Cavissima's crack team of tasters set off on June 1st for Saint-Emilion to spend four days tasting the 2019 Bordeaux En Primeur wines. On the agenda: a masterful tasting of 130 wines from 45 châteaux! A veritable marathon through Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Pessac-Léognan, Haut-Médoc, Saint Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien And Margaux. We, wearing masks, pushed open the doors of the Crus Bourgeois, Grands Crus and similar estates, as well as the 1er Grands Crus Classés.
The profile of Bordeaux 2019
The major phenomenon of 2019 was uneven flowering and veraison, a summer characterized by drought with cool nights, and a September punctuated by two brief periods of rain that revived ripening. A miracle!
Overall, the harvest took place in ideal weather conditions, resulting in very healthy grapes. High yields were observed, except perhaps in a few properties to the west of Saint-Julien who harvested very small berries.
The September rains helped dilute the wines and lower the alcohol levels. Most importantly, they facilitated the extraction of the grapes and provided the winemakers with ideal vinification conditions requiring minimal punch-downs or pump-overs. The result is remarkably soft tannins: the wines are easy to drink young, with a lovely acidity that supports aromas of ripe fruit. We have rarely encountered such intense and pleasing aromas in the glass at this stage of aging.
For us tasters, it was a pleasure to sample these wines in early June, two months after the En Primeur tastings traditionally begin in April. What a joy! What a delight! Thank you to everyone who welcomed us with a smile; it's wonderful to receive such a friendly and warm welcome after these months of lockdown!
The white wines are fresh and crisp.
We had the pleasure of tasting incredibly fresh dry white wines that offered precise aromas of white, yellow, and exotic fruits from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The wines are remarkably refined, and the quality is significantly higher and more consistent in 2019 than it was in 2018.
We enjoyed the wines from the Pessac-Léognan appellation (Smith Haut-Lafite, Pape-Clément, Clémentin de Pape-Clément and Olivier) as much as those on the Left Bank (Aile d'Argent, Goulée, Arums de Lagrange, Pagodas of Kos and the famous White Pavilion).
Our favorite wines:
Thierry appreciated the Château Olivier which will offer unparalleled value for money. For those with larger budgets, Aile d'Argent is a truly exceptional wine, comparable to a Corton Charlemagne! Alice found Pagodes de Cos Blanc seductive and refined, leaving her wanting more!
The 2019 red Bordeaux wines from the Right Bank
In both Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, we enjoyed fruity, charming, and often creamy wines. Everywhere, an intense freshness enhanced the tasting experience. With the Right Bank wines, the distinguishing factor being alcohol, we constantly shifted between two styles: either wines capable of handling alcohol levels ranging from 14 to 14.5% ABV, or warmer wines. The former offered full and/or precise mouthfeel capable of evoking emotion, while the latter ultimately had a short finish.
Our favorite name:
It's impossible to answer that question. I'd rather tell you that the great terroirs of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion have produced some truly great wines. Water stress is less pronounced in these terroirs, where the vines have deep roots.
Our favorite wines:
Our two tasters were absolutely charmed by Cheval BlancThey speak of this exquisitely refined vintage with trembling voices. (Perfection is not far off for this absolute favorite of the 2019 vintage.)
Thierry particularly appreciated Vieux Château Certan for its intellectual and refined character and finally Troplong-Mondot which continues to dazzle us a little more each year.
Alice was struck by the winemaker's passion Clos Puy Arnaud and its magnificent value for money. But if one had to be singled out, it would be the Château Lafleur and the unforgettable tasting of the magnificent vintages of domaine. They say “Wow!”
The 2019 red Bordeaux wines from the left bank
All the appellations produced some truly great wines, easy to drink and supple on the palate. The Left Bank received light rain in August, so no water stress was recorded. There too, the wines are easy to drink in their youth, and their lovely acidity also invites us to la garde. The Cabernet grapes are ripe: the blends have given pride of place to this variety, which also reduces the alcohol levels, often around 13.5%. Petit Verdot is frequently included in the blend to add a spicy note. The tannins are more cashmere than smooth: a remarkable velvety texture. The shift towards organic farming helps to reinforce the unique character of each estate. The quality level is very consistent. It reminds us of a certain 2016 vintage.
Our favorite name:
Saint-Julien It might perhaps stand out from Pauillac, given the very high and truly consistent level we tasted. But what about the great Saint-Estèphe and the... Margaux Dear taster: there isn't much you can go wrong when it comes to buying.
Our favorites :
Thierry would like to mention 3 wines that he believes are improving the most: Gruaud Larose with tannins of rare elegance and a very beautiful length – a majestic wine charged with beautiful vibrations.
Durfort-Vivens, a UFO on the planet Margaux with a dual thixotropic and airy effect serving an exquisite fruit. And finally Calon-Ségurwhose style continues to assert itself towards greater delicacy and refinement.
First discovery of Château Margaux for Alice, who was struck by the elegance and intensity of his wines. Château Léoville-Poyferré to Saint-Julien is also notable in a more subtle and elegant style than its neighbors.
With stars in our eyes, we returned home on the evening of June 5th. The Strawberry Moon illuminated our route with its full brilliance. On that long drive back to Lyon, we relived the memory of all those magical tastings. Ready, set, go!
